2018- 10 Crete

At the end of October, it began a month road trip in "winter Crete" with the motorhome... Surely the most easy-to- drive- routes, the most beautiful due to zero traffic we were visiting and staying in places that did not remind previous semi-summer visits ... The cost Piraeus- Heraklion- Piraeus 299 € with ANEK, camper 6.80m and one person, without a cabin. In Crete, we drive 985 km.


23/10
Knossos


What to say about Knossos...
 A miracle!
 I visit it every time since the boat arrives early in Heraklion (07¨00) and I have time to buy the first ticket and have an hour usually quite alone around!
 we park in the parking lot at the entrance.

35.298557, 25.161262


24-30/10
Sitia(136,5 χλμ.)
overnight at 
35.204894, 26.108088


Quiet parking 400m from the main square, harbour and 50m from the beach. yes, the weather was still warm enough for swimming...
 We stayed 4 days to visit a friend's farm this time they are distiller "Raki" in a cauldron!
 The feast takes place the whole day/ night!

 Next day was lost to recovery...




So swimming, therefore, almost alone in the mornings, the absolute happiness of Hara...





and walks to the harbour, the old town and the countless "racadica" with the most amazing snacks in Crete !!! Neither in the prefecture of Heraklion nor in Rethymnon or Chania...



One-day trip 24.03 + 24.03 km in Toplou, Phoenix Forest (Vai).
 empty and free parking (due to season)...
35.252857, 26.264861


Beautiful though the best place for an overnight stay is in the gulf of Ancient Itamos at 2.7 km. Almost alone! A van only, a couple of Germans, 
5.264506, 26.262231
30/10
Elounda 82.72 km 
overnight camp on the second boom of the harbour, along with two others with German plates. A stone's throw from a sandy beach and the central square, the main pier to where you depart for Spinalonga.
35.265372, 25.722530
the municipal clean WC beside!
all closed except for minor exceptions! They were tired of overworking and much revenue - as a natural consequence - no one keeps a shop open for 4 ~ 5 tables (in their statement).
My view is that the only area for long-time parking is at Plaka, 5.3 km at the end of the settlement at the beach- NOT in the free municipal parking lot! You drive easily in a long vehicle... and you can not go out...
35.302122, 25.72648
Spinalonga.
03/11
Elounda - Plakias (Ammoudi) 181 km.
 At our favourite beach before Plakias, in Ammoudi! 
A canteen in the area, beneath the huge almikriki trees, for natural shade with coffee, food! There are also toilets and a possibility of water supply! Absolutely friendly owners with the free camping! There is not any danger and you will not be bothered by anyone either in mid-August!
35.170562, 24.420450
Plakias with its huge beach, 1km long, with spacious parking and its beautiful taverns - we suggest the "Throupi tavern" (not on the beach) is just 5km from Ammoudi, ideal for shopping, several supermarkets and ATMs. From there are the boats to the beach of Preveli, at the mouth of the river that descends the Kourtaliotiko gorge. There is also a tavern and sun-umbrellas...
Take a visit to the Old (lower) and new (behind) monastery of Preveli 9 km.
It worth a lot!
Shortly, after visiting the monastery, on return, there is also a paid car parking where you can leave the car and get down of infinite stairs at the beach. Good courage to climb up again...
08/11
Plakias - Georgioupolis 45.85 km.
leaving Plakias I decided to follow the road from Myrthios, good Sikia, Moudros, Episkopi, Tower. A route from a narrow country road with good pavement but I would not recommend in the summer season. This was due to cross the gorge of Kotsifos day! I did it only by night during the visit to the tavern of  "Heliomanoli" in Canavos village. What's the best in the wider region!
 Arrival in Georgioupoli by the Coastal road, a tourist village at the mouth of Almyros River. overnight in the municipal parking.
35.364711, 24.261832
The small square and the settlement are indifferent... 
The picturesque harbour on the river estuary, picturesque and the island of Agios Nikolaos. (Sant Nickolas).
From where begins a huge 4.5 km long beach that connects Georgioupoli with the beach of Kournas...
10/11
Georgioupolis - Likotinara 8,73 km.
An uphill route in a narrow country road to the village on a "balcony" overlooking Georgioupolis. The nearest village, Kefalas, at 2.5 km. The reason to be there was a visit to friends' house. They live there trying to create a kind of farm. A few residential houses, several ruins, no square and cafeteria... 
11/11
One-day trip to Kourna Lake from Georgioupolis 4.53 km
  The lake is beautiful! There are two springs in the southeast. The lake is fed by streams from the nearby mountains and hills, We swam in the waters of the lake. There are small beaches on the shores of the lake, right below the main road and in front of the taverns. - In the afternoon we tried one of the best ones in a tavern "The Eye of Lake" - There are sunbeds and umbrellas during the summer months, but now beautiful wilderness! 
You can also rent a water bike (7 € / hour) if you want to enjoy a ride on the lake. You will be surprised because all the inscriptions and menus are in English and Russian...
35.331274, 24.280559
13/11
Likotinara - Balos Lagoon 102 km.
A Visit to Balo at the parking lot, of course, due to weather, drizzle with strong wind, there was no reason to go down to the beautiful Lagoon. 
The road; From the village of Kalyviani, 8 km of steep uphill dirt road, quite narrow in many places. I'm not sure that the chamber would ever start if I had to stop at a junction with a coming vehicle . I would never try this summer!
Return to Kissamos 8 km from (Kaliviani) for the overnight stay.
Forbidden the parking in the default place on the beach due to... very strong  winds!
35.498892, 23.653691
So we stayed in a windless alley 50m from the archaeological museum and Tzanakaki square, where we ate in a restaurant- almost alone- in the evening... 
Indifferently as a village (town) with an old church (Agios Spyridon) and some pieces of his old walls...
The archaeological museum 
on the way to the temple. Ottoman fountain...
14/11
Kissamos - Paleochora 108 km 
By Platanos, Sfinari, Amigdalokefali, Kefali, Plakogiania Elafonissi.
A beautiful route to the west coastal road - ok not a coastal one- mostly is following ridges - view of the coast like by "aeroplane"...
Picturesque villages, narrow to very narrow the road in many places, especially within the villages. Fortunately this season, we cross with 4 yes 4 coming cars during108 km !!!
We pay a Visit to Elafonissos this gorgeous beach, one of the most visited of Crete!
Totally empty !!! We swam, walked through the sandy tongue until the small island, we were eaten, we drank - at the camper- then siesta and the afternoon we took the road to Paleochora.
At Beautiful Paleochora with huge beaches on the right and left side, The "Selino Kastelli" (castle) and in front of, the peninsula with the harbour for Gavdos. Overnight at the western beach in the city (300m from the main pedestrian street).
35.231259, 23.679751
The shops was a disappointment - they serve raki with snacks and chips! - finally, we sat down and ate a nice pizza in a Pizzeria with a wood oven ...Early the morning we visit tthe "kasteli" and...  departure.
15/11Palaiochora - Sougia 31,7 km 
through a beautiful mountain road, Βy Prodromi, Rodovani monastery, in the middle of the road you have the beautiful "white mountains" facing you!
Sougia is a small village - with 500 beds !!! - it left us completely indifferent! I do not understand what everybody- lovers of the "free camping" find out. The beautiful beach? though not with fine sand. A Few little "almiriki' trees and lots of greenery to the gorge...
Sougia - Rethymnon 118.41km.
 mountain drive. Tsikiana, Epanochori-Prasses (880m), Skines, Oasis and the continuation of the national road Chania-Rethymnon.
16-18 / 10
In beautiful Rethymno with good friends!
I was not around this time due to the bad weather and the short time I stayed, dedicated only to my friends!
overnight Parking always in the free parking- westerly- of the 'Forteza'.
the view
Beware, however, after 7am and until late in the evening you can not find a place with either by small car... At "plus" you can go back to the old city on foot, very safe the night.
35.370910, 24.469005
19/11
Rethymnon - Arkadi Monastery (22.9km) - Heraklion (+87.5) km.
An easy and beautiful route to the most famous monastery of Crete and not only! In any case, one should visit it when on Crete.
Monastery of Arkadi 
In Heraklion, I had years to stay. So I decided to stay and walk around, leave the next night for Piraeus.
Overnight at the comfortable Parking at the Port for 6.50 € on a 24-hour basis! The best solution, I think, because of the traffic chaos that prevails in Heraklion!
35.341824, 25.141331
It is just 1.000m from the square with the "lions of Morosini", the centre of the old town.
Pleasant surprises are the pedestrianized streets that began to be created in the historic city centre.
A hike that suggested to me on the old walls was not important, since the only interesting - and only well-kept place was the bastion with Kazantzakis' tomb.
It might be more interesting for someone to see the gates and ramparts from the street level. It is a shame not to take advantage of this truly impressive wall.
The Bethlehem Gate
Koules, the Venetian Fortress "Rocca a Mare" something like the Acropolis for Heraklion!
On the "25th of August" street  - a pedestrian area today!
The Basilica of St. Mark. Municipal Library today
The "Venetian Loggia" Town Hall today
The church of Ag. Titus
The 1866 pedestrian street (the open market)
at the end of it, the Bebo Fountain and
the Turkish cembili, (charity fountain)
the cathedral of Ag. Minas and the old temple.
Turkish fountain

This was the end of a beautiful trip!
Returning on an almost empty ship...

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ITHACA

when you set out on the voyage to Ithaca,
pray that your journey may be long,
full of adventures, full of knowledge.
of the Lastrygones and the cyclopes
and the furious Poseidon, do not be afraid,
for such on your journey you shall never meet
if your thought remain lofty if a select
emotion imbue your spirit and your body.
The Lastrgones and the Cyclopes
and furious Poseidon you will never meet
unless you drag them with you in your soul,
unless your soul raises them up before you.

Pray that your journey may be long.
that many may those summer mornings be
when with what pleasure, what untold delight
you enter harbors you? Love not seen before;
that you stop at Phoenician marketplaces
to procure the goodly merchandise,
mother of pearl and coral, amber, and ebony,
and voluptuous perfumes of every kind,
as lavish an amount of voluptuous perfumes as you can:
that you venture on too many Egyptian cities
to learn and yet again to learn from the sages.

But you must always keep Ithaca on the mind.
The arrival there is your predestination.
Yet do not by any means hasten your voyage.
Let it best endure for many years,
until grown old at length you anchor at your island
rich with all you have acquired along the way.
You never hoped that Ithaca would give you riches.

Ithaca has given you the lovely voyage.
Without her, you not have verdured on the way.
She has nothing more to give you now.

Poor though you may find her, Ithaca has not deceived you.
Now that you have become so wise, so full of experience,
you will have understood the meaning of an Ithaca.

k. kavafis


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